RO Water End Profile: Ca: 99 Mg: 0 Na: 29Ĝl: 59 SO4: 68.3 HCO3: 185. This week I provide an overview of how to adjust unit settings in BeerSmith 3, the unit conversion tools and some hidden features for converting units on the fly. Maple Imperial Stout rev.C (5.5 Gal Batch)ġ.081 OG "OG" Pre Boil Original Gravity after Mashġ.022 FG "FG" Final Gravity after fermentation is completeġ60.5? F Mash starting temperature to compensate for equipment and grain temperatures 160?Fġ0 MinĚt Ten minutes into the mash check PH 5.4(The Required PH is 5.4)Ħ.47 Gal Pre Boil volume, add water if needed (Pre boil actual amount 8.5 Gallonsġ.081 OG Pre boil SG reading at 70? F 1.081OGġ0 MinĚdd 1lb Non-Fermentable Lactose Sugarįlame OutĚdd 12 oz's Grade B Maple Syrupġ.072 SG Post boil SG reading at 70? F 1.099 SGĥ.50 Gal Post Boil Volume needed (Post boil actual amount 6.4 GallonsĢ pks Wyeast Labs #1332 Yeast. 15 Gallon, 15LBS, Mash Tun Specific Heat 0.30 Cal gram degree C Mash Tun: 15 gallon plastic cooler mash with a copper pipe drain. I also use a digital Fluke Meter with a heat probe. You can always sell the 5 gallon tun with the false bottom when the time comes.I enter the temp of the grain and mash tun just prior to brewing so I have an accurate temp for the software to do its calculating. You are starting out with a small mashtun, and if you plan on upgrading to a larger tun, you’ll probably want to go with the screen. My set up is 2 10 gallon igloo water coolers, false bottom, 10 gallon brew pot and I mash then batch sparge. Plus, I have a theory as to why it would be more efficient. I got close to my numbers this past weekend but had to change the preboil volume, on the fly, to a gallon less than the calculation to get the right OG. I’ve never had a problem, and have not had to upgrade to a larger mashtun…yet. The line out hose is long enough to reach beyond the cooler handles, so I pull it up through the handle and attach a hand clamp to keep the false bottom securely on the bottom until vorlauf (the grain bed is pretty settled and heavy by then). I use a stainless tube that runs through a drilled stopper. It’s plastic, and I’ve been very careful not to strip the threading where it attaches to the out tube (a flaw in design, but I think they’re all stainless now, and this could solved). I’ve only had a stuck sparge a couple time where I simply blew into the hose to get it going. Setting up an equipment profile for a large system is not much different than the small one. Then they use the Scale recipe command and select the larger system to scale their recipes up to full scale. Right away I noticed I could cut a “v” shape notch perpendicular to the holes in the end of the down tube to get better flow. Commercial brewers maintain two equipment profiles in BeerSmith one for their test/pilot system and one for their production system. Once mash is complete, vorlauf, collect 5 gallons of sweet wort in a bucket, and pour into kettle. Mash-in, stir to reach mash temp, set timer for 60 minutes. I have brewed twice since I did this and on both occasions I have missed the strike temperature by at least 7 degrees and have. Transfer all water to MLT to pre-heat for 3 minutes. Hello, Have recently started using BeerSmith in conjunction with my SS Brewtech 10 gallon mash tun and copied some setting I found on their knowledge website to set up the details of the equipment. I’ve been using the same false bottom for a 10 gallon cooler for years and with around 200 batches. Here’s what a typical no-sparge brew day looks like: Heat full volume of brewing water water to 7F above target strike temp.
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